Day 21: Princeton Hot Springs

0.5 miles
Mt Princeton Hot Springs

I'm awake before 6 AM, hotel room gloomy.

"What if we go back up to Cottonwood Pass and keep going, just skip our reservation at Monarch? We'll show up Monday instead of Saturday," I say. I pause. "Are you awake?"

"Yeah," Granite says. He's mulling it over. The diner nearby opens at 6:30 so we lie in bed and wait a bit. Then we walk the two blocks through Buena Vista. We cut through a park that is being watered by sprinklers even though everything is still drenched from yesterday. A few dog owners are out in the early morning.

The Evergreen Cafe is the perfect diner, offering all manner of pancakes and omelets, hashbrowns and fresh baked muffins. I order a stack of pancakes and almost eat the whole thing. I would come here again. And maybe we will, since we're trying to end our trip near this town in a week. I order a blueberry muffin for the trail.

I stop by the store while Granite heads back to the hotel. My feet are so dry and callused and chafed that they hurt when my heels scrape my calves. So I'm picking up a small travel container of lotion.

People say that the longer you backpack, the less you carry. But I've added all sorts of small things in the past few weeks, and discarded little.

When I'm back at the hotel, Granite has a new proposal. He thinks we can do the rest of our planned itinerary, only backwards. We'd just need to hitch to our next resupply from the East Collegiate, then follow the Eastern side down and around and end back on the West Collegiate to complete the sections we missed, then we'd end at Cottonwood Pass again and try to hitch into town from there. We might miss our zero day in Monarch, but that's fine: we have been bumming around the hotel for most of a day and we're itching for the trail.

We pack up carefully and Steve, the co-owner of the hotel who is also annoyed about the music festival, drives us to Mt. Princeton.

Mt. Princeton is a huge hot springs resort with a fancy bar and restaurant and juice bar. We buy day passes and hang out in the adult-only area, and I sip smoothies with rum and float in hot water on pool noodles.

The day is chilly and rainy so we can't lounge in the chairs outside. Instead we find ourselves curled up on leather sofas in the lobby of the spa, fireplace dead, people milling around us. I listen to an audiobook and nap; I keep falling asleep.

We shower and go to the restaurant at 6 PM. The waitress is painfully solicitous, but I barely touch my food. Granite eats his dinner, then most of mine. I retreat to the women's room to organize my pack and change into hiking clothes. While I'm there, women filter in and out, commenting on my pack and asking me questions.

Finally I'm out and we bid goodbye to two other thru hikers about to head out. Then we're outside, walking, and it feels so good. My body has been dying for this. Why did we lie around all day when we could have been outside, stretching our legs, watching the world slowly move behind us?

This section of the Colorado Trail is on a paved road with traffic, not the scenic trail we've come to expect. We walk and thumb half-heartedly, in case a passing car wants to transport us to our campsite in 2 miles. Most don't, but it's fine. It's not raining and there are huge, calm deer in the grass by the side of the road, and the clouds are playing strip tease with the chalk cliffs of the mountain.

We walk only 15 minutes when a tiny car pulls over and a young, quiet couple from Colorado picks us up. They drive us the rest of the 2 miles to our campsite.

There isn't much dispersed camping near here because of the hot springs and private land, but there's a weird little campsite by Chalk Creek Trailhead. It's around 8 PM, maybe later, when we find it. There are two other camping groups—a thru hiker named Pika and two boys who I think are locals. We say hello but don't dally; we want the tent up before dark.

I'm exhausted. How funny that lying around all day can make me so tired. We curl up and read for a bit, and then the light is gone and I hand the Kindle to Granite. He reads another chapter or two of John Muir and then we're drifting off, stream sound surrounding us.








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