I feel deeply torn
about publishing a journal about the Colorado Trail, for all it
consumed months of planning, sucked up 4 weeks of my life, and was
probably the most physically difficult thing I've ever done (note
that I've never given birth or run an ultramarathon, so take that
with a grain of salt). I figured I would keep a journal, but
publishing it? That triggers all manner of negative reactions in me.
At core, I hate the
idea of an unseen audience getting to read, experience, and judge my
life. It's difficult to write about the Colorado Trail without also
delving into lots of personal territory, since so much of the
experience is a personal one. What's my brain doing as I trek up this
hill, what's my body doing as I lie down to sleep? Everyone
experiences the trail differently, and so much of that difference
boils down to physical reactions, mental responses, and intention.
Trying to carve those things out of the experience would leave almost
nothing, a shell of a travel guide. Useless and uninteresting.
But detailing them
means inviting unknowable persons into my mind and life in ways I
find chilling. Even as I was writing this journal, I kept wondering,
do I really want to let the world know about my nausea and despair,
my weird daydreams and some of the regrettable book choices I made on
the trail?
I also hate the idea
of this trip being for anybody else. I hate the idea of the
experiences being changed or adapted in response to an imaginary
audience. Will I act differently, knowing this could go online? Will
I censor myself, change the experience to fit expectations of people
I can imagine but most likely will never hear from? Will hiking this
trail become some kind of performance?
My skin crawls at
the thought. My stomach turns over.
And this isn't just
my hike. It's a hike shared with my partner Granite, who brought me
into backpacking 3 years ago when we first met. So much of my daily
life on the trail, my thoughts, my interactions, are with or about
him. How could I write about the Colorado Trail and not write about
Granite and consequently at least a bit about our relationship?
That drops me from
deep discomfort into outright opposition.
Saying I "value
privacy" doesn't come close to showcasing the importance I place
on keeping my romantic life off the Web. When it comes to my family
and my romantic life, I've gone to great—if sometimes cumbersome—lengths to keep a firm barrier in place between my Googleable life
and that which is known to friends and acquaintances. Where I've
stepped forward into placing things publicly online—like that one
time I changed my relationship status on Facebook, or my queasy
attempts at online dating years ago—it's tended to be with ambivalence,
extensive contemplation, careful framing, and often a
courage-inspiring stiff drink.
I feared it would be
impossible to write a trail journal that didn't intimate the details
of my relationship with Granite. Or it could be written, but it
wouldn't be honest. And wouldn't that be the worse crime?
So, given all this,
why am I publishing this?
I owe a great debt
to the folks who have written about the Colorado Trail previously,
and to others who have completed thru hikes and written about the
experience. This trip would not have been possible without their
courageous and candid accounts.
Some of that came in
the form of blog posts and articles I read about gear and trail life,
from reviews of sports bras and how to handle menstruating in the
woods to what kind of filter and stove to buy and the relative merits
of trail runners v. traditional hiking boots.
But most of what I
really learned about thru hiking I learned from trail journals: daily, often demoralizing accounts of life on the trail. I spent
hours reading the trail journals of folks who attempted the Colorado
Trail in years past. I learned as much—if not more—from those
who ended their trip prematurely, overwhelmed by the trail or
dissatisfied with the experience or suffering physical ailments, as I
did from those who completed it.
There are countless
trail journals from fit, experienced men who can crank out 20 mile
days and sleep in a bivvy sack or under a tarp, don't carry a stove,
bring barely enough food to survive. I tended to skip these, since so
little of their experience coincided with what I have known on my
prior backpacking trips. I gravitated instead toward the trail
journals of couples on their first long distance backpacking trip,
first time thru hikers, and the journals of women who had never done
anything like this before. And these hikers didn't leap along at 20
miles a day; they tended to limp painfully for 10 or 13 miles a day,
vomiting and blistered and soaked to the bone. Too-heavy packs,
muscles screaming, a little freaked out in the woods from time to
time. Hoping to find something. Sometimes lonely.
These are my people.
It was months of
reading these trail journals that convinced me that the Colorado
Trail was worth attempting, and that regular people like me could
probably do it, and that luck mattered a bit on this trip but
commonsense mattered a lot. These journals opened up a world to me I
hadn't ever imagined, taught me the temperament and character of the
Rocky Mountains.
Some of the wisdom
in these journals I ignored, and had to learn anew on the trail. Some
of that wisdom I believed, but still had to learn myself on the
trail. But it would have been impossible for me to hike 300 miles
without the honesty and dedication of countless strangers on the
Internet who wrote down the details of their experience. (And if
you're looking for a few to start with, I'd recommend Dean
Krakel, Nick
and Kayla, Jamie
Campos, and as much as you can stand on TrailJournals.com.
I also found Carrot Quinn's account
of hiking the Pacific Crest Trail invaluable, even if it was a
different trail.)
It wasn't the
details of elevation and mileage that helped me prep for and complete
this hike, though of course those are interesting. It was reading the
details of how people responded to the trail—the achilles pain,
the blisters, mornings with a tent covered in frost in July and no
gloves, afternoons hurrying off high ridges in thunderstorms with
terror at their heels, loneliness, and longings to throw in the towel
and go home. I poured over the details of these journals looking for
patterns, trying to determine if there was some mental trick, some
piece of gear, some backpacking practice that separated thru hikers
who walked to completion from the many who dropped out early, often
in the first 100 miles. These trail journals inspired me, challenged
me, and sobered me to the realities of the trail.
It's not just that I
couldn't have done this without them. It's that I wouldn't have even
tried.
This, then, is a
journal of gratitude. I owe my trip—or much of it—to these
strangers on the Internet who were willing to share their stories.
And so I'm publishing this journal to share my story in response.
Maybe someday, someone will read it and take a little heart from this journal and decide to head out on the trail. Or
maybe they'll gather a little wisdom and choose to make gear or
itinerary adjustments based on what I've written.
That's how I got
past my violent ambivalence about writing and publishing a trail journal. I
stopped thinking about the Unknown Countless Others reading my
journal and wondering, judging, criticizing. I tried to let go of the
fear that this journal would be an unerasable blemish on my digital
reputation, showcasing my insecurities, failings, and weaknesses. I
focused instead on just one thing: what can I give back to the thru
hiking community, to the future generations of Colorado Trail thru
hikers and those attempting other trails? I imagined other people
like me, who have never tried a trail nearly so long.
When I think of it like that, it's easy to see that the achy, painful, beautiful, smelly, awe-inspiring, weird truth is the only truth that would make any sense, the only truth that would be worth publishing. These future hikers don't want or deserve a sanitized, pretty version of the trail.
I hope you enjoy this trail journal, and please feel free to write me an email or leave a comment if you have feedback or questions.
Go to Day 1 of the trail journal.
Go to Day 1 of the trail journal.
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